At first glance, The New Look could be misconstrued as a series that misjudges real-life figures’ own self-importance – and at times, it does. However, former Sopranos, Damages, and Robbery Homicide Division scribe and showrunner Todd A. Kessler never lets the show get there fully. Finding the human element in the affluent within a country where the population considers them the megastars of their day.
All of this occurred during great upheaval, turmoil, and in the shadows of the darkest side of the human condition. It helps that the show is impeccably crafted, from the costumes to the settings, so you are transported to another time and place. Finally, the series has two phenomenal performances from the leads that continue to surprise you as the series comes to its satisfying conclusion.
The New Look follows the titans of the Paris, France, fashion industry. Ben Mendelsohn (Babyteeth) plays Christian Dior, the legendary French fashion designer who found himself trying to survive the Nazi-occupied “City of Light.” While working for the esteemed Lucien Lelong (John Malkovich), they dressed Nazi officers and officials wives to survive. Living with Christian is his sister Catherine (Game of Thrones’s Maisie Williams), who lives under constant threat.
Christian is part of the French LGBGQ+ community and has no children of his own. He is more of a father figure to Catherine, having cared for her since his mother died. At the time, she was an infant and he was a young man. Catherine is part of the French resistance. Naturally, she becomes a constant source of worry and anxiety for him. On the other side is Coco Chanel (Juliette Binoche), Dior’s rival, who lost her company under Nazi control.
After returning to Paris, she began to work with German officials. She is to deliver a message to England’s Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, to reclaim what was rightfully hers. To get to Churchill, she has the Nazis kidnap Elsa Lombardi (Emily Mortimer), one of those friends with whom they hate each other but not in public. This sets off a chain of events that will change the path of everyone’s lives, even after the Germans vacate France forever.
The New Look is a beautiful-looking series as breathtaking as the designer’s creations. The series possesses a gallant quality, featuring a juxtaposition regarding the ominous times in which the characters live. For example, Dior dresses Nazi wives in lovely gowns while the Gestapo rounds up young people for fighting German forces through underground warfare. Men wear classic French double-breasted suits while holding flowers, waiting for loved ones returning on trains from concentration camps. This gives the series a quality of danger in the background that becomes commonplace.
This narrative is intriguing, providing a new perspective on a World War II story and delving into the lives of two fashion legends and how they survived one of the most deadly events in human history. The writer’s first six episodes feel more like a spy series than something about obsession, that’s suspenseful. The series deals with some shady characters, where Dior or Chanel struggle with who to trust.
Additionally, The New Look explores the theme of returning to normalcy. While celebrating fashion may seem unusual, it is one of the country’s biggest industries. How satisfying was it to partake in a game or return to the movies when allowed after COVID-19? However, if you view the series through that specific lens, you can struggle with the series’ second half. Those that deal with Dior’s rise in creating Christian Dior SE. Frankly, these specific events feel less important.
This does cause the series to fail to connect with its audience—a man surviving the German occupation and using that to drive himself to greatness. Yet, Dior was not part of the rebellion. He served briefly in the French army but did help dress German officials loved ones. Reports suggest Dior did this, like many, to survive the period. The series has Chanel being more opportunistic than anything, though some historians report she was antisemitic.
Despite considerable dramatic license with the characters, this allows Mendelsohn and Binoche to deliver two great performances. Binoche, the Academy Award winner for The English Patient, portrays a devious and conniving version of Chanel, navigating through unraveling moments and saving herself when circumstances are dire. This character would be a hoot in most circumstances, but her behavior is appalling considering the times.
Mendelsohn’s performance in this role is phenomenal. With a single stoic look, he expresses himself so vividly, exuding a type of healthy masculinity that is rare nowadays. Mendelsohn’s portrayal is one of hyperfocus, active listening, and passion. Simply put, his turn can draw viewers in and never let go, which is no surprise. No matter the genre, Mendelsohn always gives an interesting and enthralling performance.
There is limited documentation about Dior and Chanel’s lives during the German invasion of Western Europe. Yes, this story is more inspirational than factual. However, you can view The New Look as an engaging tale of resilience. Just not the rags to riches, but the riches to uber-riches kind. That will make the Apple TV+ streaming series harder to digest for viewers than most.
The New Look is now available to stream on Apple TV+. New episodes are set to debut every Wednesday for the remainder of the season.
Despite The New Look's obvious faults, Mendelsohn and Binoche give two phenomenal performances.
-
GVN Rating 6
-
User Ratings (0 Votes)
0
I am a film and television critic and a proud member of the Las Vegas Film Critic Society, Critics Choice Association, and a 🍅 Rotten Tomatoes/Tomato meter approved. However, I still put on my pants one leg at a time, and that’s when I often stumble over. When I’m not writing about movies, I patiently wait for the next Pearl Jam album and pass the time by scratching my wife’s back on Sunday afternoons while she watches endless reruns of California Dreams. I was proclaimed the smartest reviewer alive by actor Jason Isaacs, but I chose to ignore his obvious sarcasm. You can also find my work on InSession Film, Ready Steady Cut, Hidden Remote, Music City Drive-In, Nerd Alert, and Film Focus Online.